Hervey Bay
Turn left out of our driveway, right onto Old Cleveland Rd, left onto the Gateway and… breathe a sigh of relief. 2021 was a big year for us and to say we were looking forward to our end of year holiday would be an understatement. After driving north for three and a half hours we arrived in Hervey Bay. We hadn’t been to Hervey Bay before but it had been on the list for a few years and we decided 2021 was the year to tick it off. We hoped it would be the perfect location to unwind. As it turned out, it was a most enriching and memorable holiday.
We checked into our accomodation and immediately took snacks and drinks out onto the balcony. The sun was setting and our view over to Shelly Beach was just exquisite! After I got some snacks into my belly I couldn’t resist the photographic pull any longer, so I crossed the road, headed down the steps to the beach and started shooting. It was a beautiful dusk. We didn’t know it was a full moon so we were in raptures! To illustrate- I took over 440 photos in under half an hour! They don’t call me shutterbug for nothing!
I couldn’t resist making these images a moody black and white…
Mum and I were so excited over how many shells there were on the beach! Needless to say we didn’t know it was called Shelly Beach at that point… We heard about the famous Maddigan’s Seafood so we finished our first night in Hervey Bay with the best fish and chips in town.
Over the few days we were there, we spent a lot of time in the shallow water at Shelly Beach. Hervey Bay’s calm water is perfect for paddle-boarding, jet-skiing and swimming. The waters around Fraser Island are so clean and refreshing. Fraser Island is now also called K’gari (pronounced Gari) and the custodians of the land are the Butchulla people. K'gari means ‘paradise’.
Our host said Hervey Bay is Australia’s whale watching capital, which I didn’t know before! He explained that the whales come to Moon Point for a rest and a play; it’s not as rough as the open ocean so they go there to chill out. He said the best month to see them is September. Another creature one has to keep a close eye out for are dugongs. They’re shy, so they don’t come out too often. On one of the mornings, he told us there was a dugong just off the shore and he contemplated waking us up to see it!
On Sunday, Dad and I visited the Hervey Bay Historical Village and Museum. I do love a historical village! Is there anything sweeter than losing reality for a little while and walking into old wooden buildings imagining you’re a pioneering school teacher in the middle of the outback teaching the next generation? Just me then… Brian did a corn shelling and rope making demonstration, which was so fascinating. I realised just how much I am a product of modern society. I was amazed at the way people back then invented ingenious machines to do the work. Necessity is the mother of invention, so they say. I didn’t even know how rope was made! Brian showed us how to attach the twine to the machine and turn the handle. As I’m a little bit thick, I asked him the obvious question- ‘how do you make a long piece of rope if the machine is only that long?’ Dad told me later he was waiting for someone else in our group to ask that stupid question but… it was me. Brian let me keep the rope I made and he attached a little tag that says ‘I made this rope on a machine over 100 years old at the Hervey Bay Historical Village and Museum’. I think after some hard knocks I would’ve been a pretty good pioneer. Thankfully we’ll never know…
We wandered down to the blacksmith shed and met Peter. He demonstrated his skills and made a replica horseshoe. He used to work in Sydney on Tommy Smith’s racehorses.
If I had to pick a favourite room, it would be the Iris Beckman Building Ladies Display. The garments on display are works of art. There are the sweetest little baby jackets, bonnets, booties all handmade with love. What captivated my attention was a cabinet with gorgeous dresses owned by various ladies and donated to the museum. Some are wedding dresses, others debutante gowns. One young lady even won belle of the ball in her dress in 1965! It’s an exquisite dress, so I can see why!
Everyone at the village was lovely, and the facilities were super clean. I could see my face in the bathroom floor it was so clean- I think that deserves some recognition.
The next day Dad and I walked to the very end of Urangan Pier. It felt like such a huge achievement, considering it’s almost a kilometre! It used to be even longer. There were many fisherman along the way, contentedly waiting by their rods. There were millions of tiny crabs busily working away.
I found Hervey Bay Eco Marine Tours in a Fraser Coast brochure. I really wanted to experience the traditional culture of the Butchulla people and there was a whole section in this brochure that had Aboriginal experiences available. We booked the Turtle Discovery Tour with Hervey Bay Eco Marine Tours. Tuesday morning we met Joe Joe at the office and he fitted our snorkels and flippers. We boarded the Milbi (meaning ‘turtle’ in the Butchulla language) and got settled. Joe Joe (the entertainment) and Will (the skipper) immediately put everyone at ease with their cracker jokes and chilled music. The sweetest little family were sitting next to us, they had a two year old daughter who was Miss Personality! She had no fear at all, so her parents had to keep an eye on her constantly so she didn’t end up overboard. I got comfy cross-legged on the back of the boat on one of the platforms where you could sit (pictured below). Little Miss sat on my lap and we said ‘bubble’ and ‘fish’ as we floated through the stunning scenery. It was impossible not to relax.
On the way to Pelican Bank, Dad was the first person to spot a turtle! We saw quite a few dolphins which had everyone in the boat standing up oohing and aahing. Joe Joe spotted a stingray and there was an abundance of harmless jellyfish bobbing along the boat. Joe Joe had fish spotting sunnies so he stood at the back of the boat and could see whatever was in the water. He told us stories and jokes and kept us laughing.
The Milbi stopped near Pelican Bank and we disembarked. Pelican Bank was a paradise - crystal clear blue water and pristine white sand. Joe Joe set up umbrellas for us white fellas so we didn’t end up pink fellas. We were free to explore and enjoy the island. They said we could also use the time to practise using our snorkels, ready for the open ocean. While I was swimming, I accidentally kicked a big fat jellyfish. The texture is unmistakable. There’s a reason Dory called her jellyfish ‘Squishy’… I put my snorkel up to my face and peered under. I didn’t spot it straight away, and hoped I had been imagining things. But alas, there it was. It was the weirdest looking jelly I’ve ever seen. Hope he’s doing ok.
Mum and I walked around the whole island with Joe Joe and chatted. He told us about meeting Prince Harry (on Harry’s Instagram he posted “I met Joe Joe!”) and playing the didgeridoo for Olivia Newton John when he saw her at the airport. He also told us about how he is the model for Michael Cook’s photographic work, which is exhibited all over the world. Fiona Foley, the award-winning author and artist, is Joe Joe’s cousin. I was so excited to learn that connection because in my research about Butchulla country I saw her name featured a lot.
While Dad and Joe Joe were talking, Mum and I were playing around nearby in the shallow water. As we were hyper alert to spotting marine life in the waters, I spotted something floating nearby. I moved closer and saw it was a half masticated fish. I nervously picked it up by the tail and exhibited it so my parents and Joe Joe could admire my bravery. However, when I went to fling it back to the ocean, it broke in half, becoming more gross and I screamed, running back to shore. So much for that plan.
Joe Joe played the didgeridoo and clap sticks for us. The clap sticks were made from black wattle. He told us the most fascinating things about plants, stars and the sea. As we cruised past the islands, he pointed out big nests that we could see in the distance and explained what birds lived there.
Our Milbi family started to board again and while waiting for the others, some of the kids started jumping off the roof into the water. I decided I wanted to do that too. I mean, how hard could it be?! Will moved the boat out a bit deeper for me because I’m so tall, and I climbed up the ladder to the roof. I then realised my mistake. Looking down, the water looked miles away. My pride stepped in and I said to myself- “can’t back out now!” So I jumped and accidentally screamed again. The feeling of falling for what felt like forever was super scary! Joe Joe was proud of me for having a go, and I was proud of me too, but I think I’ll leave it to the kids next time!!
After some more cruising around the Great Sandy Strait Marine Park, Will announced that we had reached the reef. I’d never snorkelled before and was so excited. There was beautiful coral and fish! I felt like I had a portal to another world, I couldn’t stop peering under the water with my snorkel, marvelling at all that lay beneath. On the way back to the marina I got to cuddle baby girl again. She was very tired after such a big day, but she fought off sleep like nobody’s business. The atmosphere on board was like that of a big family. We parted ways at the end of the day with happy hearts and wonderful memories of the Milbi. It was an enriching cultural experience that I can’t recommend enough.
That night, we went to Enzo’s on the Beach for dinner. It was incredible!! Mum and Dad ordered the scallops for an entrée and I got oysters. I traded Mum an oyster for a scallop and… It was the most amazing thing I’ve ever tasted. Mum and Dad said they were the best scallops they’d ever had! I’m still drooling over them, even now. We were at a table overlooking the beach and it couldn’t have been more perfect. It reminded us of a restaurant we visited in Pattaya, Thailand with our dear friends while they were living there. Such happy memories.
Mum and I went to the Urangan Markets the next morning. The markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 7am-1pm. I got gluten free vegan donuts and natural facial products from Wander & Find so I was a happy girl. We went for a little stroll on the pier and a crowd was gathering around one fisherman with a line that was completely bent over. He was trying to reel in whatever was on the end, but it was so strong and very stubborn! Eventually they realised it was a stingray. They were able to hook it up and set it free again. Poor fella got caught in all the action!
On one of our final evenings in Hervey Bay, we enjoyed a lovely sunset cruise with Blue Dolphin. They provided drinks and nibbles and it was our job to relax! Just gorgeous!
Thank you for the most wonderful holiday Hervey Bay. You exceeded our expectations and were the perfect getaway to recuperate from 2021. We will definitely be back! Maybe we will return in September to see some whales…
Kate x